Skip to Content
 

Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

45 replies [Last post]
Anonymous

This is actually the first board game that I created (not including the ones I created when I was growing up) way back before I had every heard of Settlers of Catan or the Board Game Designers Forum. My wife and I worked out the basic concept and I worked out the mechanics.

I set this one to one side for quite a while for a variety of reasons. I was moving on to more complex designs and trying more "sophisticated" mechanics. I have been pulling this one out more recently and revisiting it in an effort to polish off any rough spots. There's quite a lot that I actually enjoy about the design. It uses a roll-and-move mechanic, but in a way that provides players with a variety of decisions (take the easy money and risk hardship, accept lower rewards to buy from cheacper shops). It also includes a good auction mechanic that's worth a look.

Overall I keep coming back to Collectibility because, as a whole the game came together well. Feel free to read over the rules (I have also posted the game board) and let me know what you think. I'm sure there are quite a few ways that I could make the game even better. I would be interested to hear what you have to say.

Thanks!

Here are the instructions.

And here's the game board.

Zzzzz
Zzzzz's picture
Offline
Joined: 06/20/2008
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

I will be taking a deeper look at the rules, but just a quick comment about the board.

At least when viewing it on a computer display, it seems very busy. How has the board worked during live gametesting? Does it take a lot of time for players to read the information?

Again this is just a quick gut comment based on looking at it on a 19" display. So maybe it looks better in RL.

I will be back to post about the rules...

sedjtroll
sedjtroll's picture
Offline
Joined: 07/21/2008
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

I think the board looks fine, reminiscent of games like The Mad Magazine game (probably the most fun roll-and-move game I've ever played).

- Seth

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

Zzzzz wrote:
At least when viewing it on a computer display, it seems very busy. How has the board worked during live gametesting? Does it take a lot of time for players to read the information?

It's funny that you mention the board. I actually considered making it even MORE busy to help players understand the movement through the inside lanes. I was worried that the rules weren't clear enough and that players would play it wrong. When I playtested without the rules governing movement through the inner lanes, players basically ignored all the decision making aspects of the movement and raked in a ton of money. It broke the game, but I didn't want to muddle up the board with more graphics than necessary.

Otherwise, the board plays well. Players don't have a problem reading the text on the spaces as the game goes along.

sedjtroll wrote:
I think the board looks fine, reminiscent of games like The Mad Magazine game (probably the most fun roll-and-move game I've ever played).

That's a blast from my past! I actually had that game and had a blast playing it! I'm going to have to look through the attic to see if I still have it.

sedjtroll
sedjtroll's picture
Offline
Joined: 07/21/2008
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

I looked closer at the board. It looks like some spaces are repeated and stuff. I imagine you know that. The 2 things that struck me as odd were 1. there were 2 auctiony spaces right next to each other (admittedly I don't know what auctions are so maybe that's just fine), and 2. The garage Sale haggle drawback isn't the same as the other three- was that intended? Also I noticed those haggle abilities all say "on a roll of 5-6+", while I assume you're rolling a d6 I don't think it's likely you'll roll more than 6. And there's a repeated word on the Dutch Auction space (at the end).

I'm reading the rules next, and I'll flip back here intermittantly and comment...

First comment: Make the low end $5(or $10) instead of $8 and eliminate $1 bills.

Category3 and Category4... things people collect: Sports cards/CCG cards, Plates, Coins, Stamps, figurines, eggs, clocks, wines...

I think you can delete the "Component Mix" section alltogether.

Hmm... having 3 POOR condition items in a set is better than having 2 GOOD ones and one POOR one? Well, I'll rescind that comment until I see the scoring- I'm sure the GOOD items score more than the POOR ones, so a set of 3 POOR might not be any better than 2 GOOD and 1 POOR item. Just thinking out loud I guess.

I think you can get rid of the "Rules for optional play" line as well. I think it's understood that there can always be house rules, and that all the rules must be agreed upon at the outset.

Just out of curiosity- why remove the $100 items for 2-3 players?

I don't think I like the Auto-gift of $50 to anyone who ends up with $30 after they pay for gas or whatever. There's a huge discrepency between that and losing a turn and a half and all your money for just having $30 less to start with.

Second half of the playing turn You say "it's always a good idea to pull an item card from an adjacent area" if they choose not to shop or auction. I don't recall anything about drawing (or pulling) a card at all. Is this a rule? If so it should go under Rules and not Strategy tips.
[edit] I think you mean you should always at least shop, then not buy if you don't want to. Is that accurate?]

You've got an "is" instead of an "If" in the Spaces that affect the Appraisal of an Item section. Also in that section, if something decreases the value of an item by 1 notch, and there's no such card available then it further decreases it... but if a space decreases an item all the way to POOR condition, and there's no such card available, it doesn't decrease it at all. I think that's a little uneven, don't you?

"but" instead of "buy" in the Spaces that Allow the Purchase of More than One Item section.

Replacing items (Colloctor)... I think it might be cleaner to simply say that you can't put them back in a place that's already Closed for business.

I'm not sure I understand why there's such a thing as a 'minimum starting pric' if you're allowed to bid lower than it, and if the seller must sell if noone bids higher than it.

I also think it would be cleaner to simply Auction your own items. Maybe allow a 'free trade' portion of the turn first, or try to convince someont to auction their stuff on their own turn, but I dunno about auctioning off someone else's stuff.

I'm not sure about bidding on an auction when you don't know the appraisal of the item.

"Appraisals are not public knowledge and may be secreted beneath the item card..." Um, I'm pretty sure 'secreted' isn't the word you're looking for there ;)

I've indicated things I'd watch out for and pointed out things that I think I'd do differently or that I think need improvement. This doesn't mean I don't like the idea- in fact I think tis sounds very much like the kind of thing people would buy and play like Monopoly. I think it' got great potential in the Family market, but I would simplify the rules a little as I've described in a few cases above. I think most of those 'clean up' changes probably won't effect game play, just make the game smoother and the rules cleaner.

Also please note that when I say "I don't know about..." it doesn't mean it's bad. When I think something is bad for the game or ought to be changed, I say so. If I say "I dunno" then it's sort of a red flag- something to think about, but might be just fine.

Hope I've been helpful,

- Seth

Zzzzz
Zzzzz's picture
Offline
Joined: 06/20/2008
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

Ok here is my feedback on the instructions,

GAME PLAY
The sentence,

"Completed collections are worth double the total of actual values of all items in that player’s collection (see Collections, below)."

does not seem to read/flow well to me. I assume the intent of the sentence is to state that a completed collection is worth twice the total face value of all items in the collection. Maybe just changing the "of" to "on"? (I think the MISCELLANEOUS section has this worded better, see that section for what would be better in this game play area)

Spaces Requiring a Payment/Inability to Make a Payment
Why is it that a player with under $30 is allowed to immediately move his playing token to ANY space of his choice that directs him to unconditionally receive $50? Not sure the point behind this option, seems to be a bit odd to me.

Shopping
"The player then selects any one Item card at random from that area." does this mean I can randomly select ANY card from the available pile? Or would I be selecting just the top card from the pile? As it is currently worded, I would think that selecting the 5 card in the pile would be ok.

Purchase Price
Any reason that Flea Market and Garage Sale are the same %? Maybe Flea market could be 75% instead of 50.

Haggling
Have you considered having multiple haggle %s? I just ask since it might be good to have a way to "simulate" a better haggle on one players part then another. For instance, could having an Antique haggle of 75% for a rolled 6 and 100% for a rolled 5.

Spaces that Affect the Appraisal of an Item
I think I followed this area, but I might sugget a little clean up if possible. Some of the wording when involving uping the target value or lowering the target value seems to read a little tough. Also it seem that there is a typo or something missing between lines 3 and 4 (one sentence starts with lowercase "is").

Scurra
Scurra's picture
Offline
Joined: 09/11/2008
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

sedjtroll wrote:
"Appraisals are not public knowledge and may be secreted beneath the item card..." Um, I'm pretty sure 'secreted' isn't the word you're looking for there ;)

Oh yes it is :-) Secreted has two meanings, and one of them is indeed to hide or conceal something. The other one isn't, of course, and that's the one you're thinking of. Both definitions appear to have an origin in the Latin for "set aside". Here endeth the lesson.

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

Thanks for the great feedback! I'll try to go through each post and respond:

sedjtroll wrote:
I looked closer at the board. It looks like some spaces are repeated and stuff. I imagine you know that.

Yes, I did repeat some of the spaces that worked well in the overall scheme. The goal when laying out the board was to roughly balance out the spaces that encourage players to buy in the second half of their turn and spaces that encourage players to sell in the second half of their turn. Hopefull a balance is struck (even though it meant duplicating some of the spaces).

Quote:
The 2 things that struck me as odd were 1. there were 2 auctiony spaces right next to each other (admittedly I don't know what auctions are so maybe that's just fine)...

Since it's a roll and move system, there's a good chance that a player will hit either one or the other. I don't think it would negatively impact the game. (Hopefully the auction concept becomes clear from the rules.)

Quote:
...and 2. The garage Sale haggle drawback isn't the same as the other three- was that intended?

Yes, that was intentional. There is supposed to be an inverse correlation to the relative ease of getting an item at a low price and the potential actual value of that item. The Antiques Store sells items for the most markup, but also guarantees that the items will never be appraised at less than GOOD. By extension, the Garage Sale had to offer players the chance to get an item at the absolute lowest possible price. Because of the balance of the game, it worked out that the Flea Market and Garage Sale offered items at the same price (50% or 25% if haggled successfully). To increase the chance that a player would get the item at the lowest price at the Garage Sale, the haggle was made more likely to be accepted by being rejected on a "Haggle Roll" of 6 or higher (while the rest would fail on a value of 5 or higher).

Quote:
Also I noticed those haggle abilities all say "on a roll of 5-6+", while I assume you're rolling a d6 I don't think it's likely you'll roll more than 6.

I was interested to see how this would come accross in the rules. The 5-6+ is taking into account any bonuses a player may have from the effect of a space on the playing board. Maybe that could be made more clear on the board (calling it a "Haggle Value" instead of a Haggle Roll).

Quote:
And there's a repeated word on the Dutch Auction space (at the end).

Good catch! I can't believe that I missed that. It's true, you only see what you think is there, not what's actually there.

Quote:
I'm reading the rules next, and I'll flip back here intermittantly and comment...

First comment: Make the low end $5(or $10) instead of $8 and eliminate $1 bills.

The item values were chosen because they must be evenly divisible by 4 to make the math for the actual values work out evenly. The potential actual values of an $8 item would be $2, 4, 8, 12, and 16. If I did change the low value to $5, I'd have to introduce quarters into the game! ;)

Quote:
Category3 and Category4... things people collect: Sports cards/CCG cards, Plates, Coins, Stamps, figurines, eggs, clocks, wines...

Can you believe that the hardest part of the game for me has been to come up with just the right categories? Of course that was back when I was going to self-publish what, at the time I thought was the next BIG THING! That was before I found BGDF and realized that I want to design games and not handle all the business stuff (I'll leave that to the professionals!). I like your ideas!! A few might make it into the final cut (so far the other choices are toys (obvious) and antiques).

Quote:
I think you can delete the "Component Mix" section alltogether.
...
I think you can get rid of the "Rules for optional play" line as well. I think it's understood that there can always be house rules, and that all the rules must be agreed upon at the outset.

That's just me being overly cautious (at the advice of Greg Aleknevicus). Yeah, I could probably eliminate it and some of the other more lawyerly sections.

Quote:
Hmm... having 3 POOR condition items in a set is better than having 2 GOOD ones and one POOR one? Well, I'll rescind that comment until I see the scoring- I'm sure the GOOD items score more than the POOR ones, so a set of 3 POOR might not be any better than 2 GOOD and 1 POOR item. Just thinking out loud I guess.

Having an item appraised as GOOD in a set would always be more advantageous than one appraised at POOR since the actual value would be doubled. Taking $8 items, having a set (doubled actual values) of one GOOD and two POOR would be worth $16. A set with all POOR items would be worth $12. A set of 2 GOOD and 1 POOR would be worth $20 as it should be in real life (not that this is any great simulation or anything).

Quote:
Just out of curiosity- why remove the $100 items for 2-3 players?

Having more items with fewer players means that it would take longer for players to find complete sets of items. In the limited playtesting, leaving them in increased the game length beyond what we were willing to play. I will have to test it more going forward, but for now it seems like a good method of keeping all games about the same length (roughly 90 minutes).

Quote:
I don't think I like the Auto-gift of $50 to anyone who ends up with $30 after they pay for gas or whatever. There's a huge discrepency between that and losing a turn and a half and all your money for just having $30 less to start with.

The wording is a bit clunky (with a penalty of 1.5 turns for not meeting the deficit listed in one paragraph and a reward and the ability to continue with his turn listed in the next.) The spirit of the rule was to keep players from being knocked back so far in their turn as to not be able to come back. Remember that the $50 bonus only goes for players with a total net worth of less than $30 (including the value of all item in that player's possession). That doesn't happen very often and it can be very hard to come back from. There may be a better way of accomplishing this (certainly a better way of spelling it out in the rules) and I'm open to suggestions!

Quote:
Second half of the playing turn You say "it's always a good idea to pull an item card from an adjacent area" if they choose not to shop or auction. I don't recall anything about drawing (or pulling) a card at all. Is this a rule? If so it should go under Rules and not Strategy tips.
[edit] I think you mean you should always at least shop, then not buy if you don't want to. Is that accurate?]

Your edit is correct, it refers to shopping and should be changed in the rules to reflect that.

Quote:
You've got an "is" instead of an "If" in the Spaces that affect the Appraisal of an Item section. Also in that section, if something decreases the value of an item by 1 notch, and there's no such card available then it further decreases it... but if a space decreases an item all the way to POOR condition, and there's no such card available, it doesn't decrease it at all. I think that's a little uneven, don't you?

Actually there is text missing from that portion, that sentence should begin "If there..." Sorry about that!

As for the increasing/decreasing of values, I will admit that it is more abstracted that it could be for the sake of simplicity. I'm not sure how often such a case would come up in game play, likely not very often. I can think of times where the next higher/lower appraisal was used up so the next one from that was used, but not where the extreme case applied (though I wanted to account for it in the rules). I do agree that, if there is no POOR appraisal left, a space that indicates that the highest appraised item should be switched to POOR should not be ignored, but to quantify beyoud that would go beyond the "light game" aspect that I wanted. To state that a player would then use the next incrementally low appraisal and so on so long as it didn't increase the initial appraisal of the item seemed a bit complicated. Maybe not?

Quote:
"but" instead of "buy" in the Spaces that Allow the Purchase of More than One Item section.

Great catch, thanks!

Quote:
Replacing items (Colloctor)... I think it might be cleaner to simply say that you can't put them back in a place that's already Closed for business.

Actually, a player is able to place items into a space that is closed for business. Doing so would reopen that space again until all items in that space are once again sold. Sorry if that didn't come out clearly in the rules, I'll have to look at it again.

Quote:
I'm not sure I understand why there's such a thing as a 'minimum starting pric' if you're allowed to bid lower than it, and if the seller must sell if noone bids higher than it.

It's like setting a reserve price. If the bidding never gets higher than the reserve, then the seller isn't obligated to sell. If a plaayer doesn't state a minimum price, then that player IS required to sell at the close of the auction regardless of the winning bid.

Quote:
I also think it would be cleaner to simply Auction your own items. Maybe allow a 'free trade' portion of the turn first, or try to convince someont to auction their stuff on their own turn, but I dunno about auctioning off someone else's stuff.

Great question!! This was intended to allow players to entice others to sell an item. Lets say it's my turn. I want you to sell me an item. You want to sell, but you want to auction it instead of an outright sale in an attempt to drive up the price. The rules allow you to do so even though it's my turn (since I want the item, I'll let you go ahead). In practice, this works out really well, in fact one of the biggest draws of the game (as far as I'm concerned) is the interaction between the players. This mechanic just allows players a little more flexibility so that they can do more within the guidelines of the rules. Just imagine if I landed on a spot that rewarded me at the conclusion of an auction. I coax you into selling an item. You then say that you auctioned the item so youdeserve the reward instead of me. The rules take all that into account so that all situations are handled (hopefully!!).

Quote:
I'm not sure about bidding on an auction when you don't know the appraisal of the item.

Actually, a seller can make the actual appraisal know at any time. They can use that to guarantee the value of an item, or they can be sly to ditch an item for more than it's worth. It's a neat inter-player mechanic that looms Diplomacy-like.

Quote:
"Appraisals are not public knowledge and may be secreted beneath the item card..." Um, I'm pretty sure 'secreted' isn't the word you're looking for there ;)

Great catch!! I never thought of it using THAT pronounciation! I think I need to crack open the old thesaurus and look up another word!

Quote:
I've indicated things I'd watch out for and pointed out things that I think I'd do differently or that I think need improvement. This doesn't mean I don't like the idea- in fact I think tis sounds very much like the kind of thing people would buy and play like Monopoly. I think it' got great potential in the Family market, but I would simplify the rules a little as I've described in a few cases above. I think most of those 'clean up' changes probably won't effect game play, just make the game smoother and the rules cleaner.

Also please note that when I say "I don't know about..." it doesn't mean it's bad. When I think something is bad for the game or ought to be changed, I say so. If I say "I dunno" then it's sort of a red flag- something to think about, but might be just fine.

Hope I've been helpful,

- Seth

Great feedback! Thank youfor taking the time to go through my game and provide such detailed comments. I wouldn't even take it badly if you did use the old "I dunno" on me! ;)

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

Scurra wrote:
Secreted has two meanings, and one of them is indeed to hide or conceal something. The other one isn't, of course, and that's the one you're thinking of. Both definitions appear to have an origin in the Latin for "set aside". Here endeth the lesson.

Whew! Thanks for clearing that up!! Any suggestions for a good synonym in that dictionary??

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

Zzzzz wrote:
Ok here is my feedback on the instructions...

Cool! Thanks for looking the game over and responding!!

Quote:
..."Completed collections are worth double the total of actual values of all items in that player’s collection (see Collections, below)."

does not seem to read/flow well to me. I assume the intent of the sentence is to state that a completed collection is worth twice the total face value of all items in the collection. Maybe just changing the "of" to "on"? (I think the MISCELLANEOUS section has this worded better, see that section for what would be better in this game play area)

Good questioN! Actually, the face values are only part of the actual value of an item. The appraisal that a player draws when buying an item will indicate what the actual value is. For example, an item with a face value (estimated value) of $8 that is appraised at EXCELLENT has an actual value that is worth 200% of the estimated value, or $16. If that item is part of a set, the actual value of that item (and all items in that set) are doubled. This item in particular would be worth $32 for being part of a set.

I'll have to read through to be sure that the difference between estimated and actual values are clear enough.

Quote:
Why is it that a player with under $30 is allowed to immediately move his playing token to ANY space of his choice that directs him to unconditionally receive $50? Not sure the point behind this option, seems to be a bit odd to me.

Yeah, this needs some re-work in the instructions and some rethinking for the motivation behind it (see my reply to Seth's question about the same issue).

Quote:
"The player then selects any one Item card at random from that area." does this mean I can randomly select ANY card from the available pile? Or would I be selecting just the top card from the pile? As it is currently worded, I would think that selecting the 5 card in the pile would be ok.

Your interpretation is correct, in fact the cards are to be scattered in the space of the shopping area. A player may draw ANY card from that space that they choose, but may not look at any before drawing.

Quote:
Purchase Price
Any reason that Flea Market and Garage Sale are the same %? Maybe Flea market could be 75% instead of 50.

This was a balancing question, I didn't want players to be able to buy an item (albeit using haggling) at the Collectibles Store for less than the price of buying something at the Flea Market. The Flea Market and Garage Sale are differentiated by giving a lower chance of a failed haggle at the Garage Sale. In real life, Ifind that prices are very close between flea markets and garage sales anyways...

Quote:
Have you considered having multiple haggle %s? I just ask since it might be good to have a way to "simulate" a better haggle on one players part then another. For instance, could having an Antique haggle of 75% for a rolled 6 and 100% for a rolled 5.

You must have seen the early versions of the playing board!!! They actually did have different haggle values depending on what you roll. A player would have to decide if they feel lucky enough to go for the lower price (more chance of failure) or haggle for a moderate prices chance of failure). In reality, players never declared which price they were haggling for. I tried to make it more obvious that a decision had to be made before haggling, but got tired of always explaining it. At that point (my being the bookkeeper for the haggling function) that I decided to make it simple. A player says they will haggle and rolls the die. One price and no bookkeeping.

Quote:
I think I followed this area, but I might sugget a little clean up if possible. Some of the wording when involving uping the target value or lowering the target value seems to read a little tough. Also it seem that there is a typo or something missing between lines 3 and 4 (one sentence starts with lowercase "is").

Good catch! Yes, the words "If there" are missing from the start of that sentence.

Seth also mentioned this function in his post. I wanted to balance between simple mechanics (in keeping with the relatively light game play) and ensuring that the function was thought through. I wanted to have it so that a player that lands on a space that will penalize them will still do so even if the next lower appraisal is missing (though to more of an extent). Conversely, a player will be rewarded more if the next higher appraisal is missing (should they land on a space that indicates that an increase in appraisal is merited). Since there are fewer high appraisals that low appraisals, it is more likely that this mechanic will benefit the player rather than hurt them.

Maybe I need to look over the wording of the function or provide some examples?

Thanks again for the comments!! Very helpful!

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

Wow, nice game. There is a very thorough rulebook of which I didn't find any problems, although I dont think it is necessary to put the part about house rules in there, not a serious issue.

I am going to have to agree that the board is a lot to look at, but I think that is a good thing. If you have a variety of spaces like that it is better to have an explanation of each one (a la Life, possibly my least fav. game but in this case a gr8 example) than to just have the words.

I have to go now, will be back probably tomorrow afternoon to finish reviewing.

sedjtroll
sedjtroll's picture
Offline
Joined: 07/21/2008
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

SiskNY wrote:
The item values were chosen because they must be evenly divisible by 4 to make the math for the actual values work out evenly. The potential actual values of an $8 item would be $2, 4, 8, 12, and 16. If I did change the low value to $5, I'd have to introduce quarters into the game! ;)

Yeah, I noticed that right after I posted.

Quote:
The wording is a bit clunky (with a penalty of 1.5 turns for not meeting the deficit listed in one paragraph and a reward and the ability to continue with his turn listed in the next.) The spirit of the rule was to keep players from being knocked back so far in their turn as to not be able to come back. Remember that the $50 bonus only goes for players with a total net worth of less than $30 (including the value of all item in that player's possession). That doesn't happen very often and it can be very hard to come back from. There may be a better way of accomplishing this (certainly a better way of spelling it out in the rules) and I'm open to suggestions!

I may have thought it was for people who had less than $30 cash, but either way I think it's rediculous to reward someone for being broke- even if the intention is to keep them in the game.

Quote:
I do agree that, if there is no POOR appraisal left, a space that indicates that the highest appraised item should be switched to POOR should not be ignored, but to quantify beyoud that would go beyond the "light game" aspect that I wanted. To state that a player would then use the next incrementally low appraisal and so on so long as it didn't increase the initial appraisal of the item seemed a bit complicated. Maybe not?

Is that not exactly what you did in the other case (where something is incrementally raised or lowered)?

Another way to do it is to have some "+" and "_" cards or counters which you can attach to a card which indicates that the appraisal value is higher or lower than the appraisal card says. Then you don;t have to go digging through the appraisal deck ever.

Quote:
Seth wrote:
Replacing items (Colloctor)... I think it might be cleaner to simply say that you can't put them back in a place that's already Closed for business.

Actually, a player is able to place items into a space that is closed for business. Doing so would reopen that space again until all items in that space are once again sold. Sorry if that didn't come out clearly in the rules, I'll have to look at it again.
Oh, it came out clearly. I said I think it would be cleaner if that were not the case. What is the reason you CAN re-open a store? If there's not a good one then myabe it would be betrter to have to go to stores that are still open for business.

Quote:
It's like setting a reserve price. If the bidding never gets higher than the reserve, then the seller isn't obligated to sell. If a plaayer doesn't state a minimum price, then that player IS required to sell at the close of the auction regardless of the winning bid.

From reading the rules it very much sounded like such a reserve bid is meaningless because if someone bids less than it then you still have to sell. Maybe I read it wrong or something, but that's the impression I got.

If there IS a 'minimum bid', then why not simply say that you cannot bid lower than that?

Quote:
This was intended to allow players to entice others to sell an item. Lets say it's my turn. I want you to sell me an item. You want to sell, but you want to auction it instead of an outright sale in an attempt to drive up the price. The rules allow you to do so even though it's my turn (since I want the item, I'll let you go ahead).

I understand that this is how it works. I suggest that dealmaking can be made whenever, but if someone wants to auction something it should be during their own turn. Since an Auction is a major part of the turn it seems odd to me that other players can auction on your turn, though I see why you want to do that. However, what's the difference to you if you buy my tihng at auction on your turn, or wait for my turn?

As for enticing, I don't see why you still wouldn't be able to try and entice someone to have an auction when their turn comes around.

The only reason I can see to allow auctions on other people's turns is so that they can sell the item without giving up their opportunity to shop (or sell a different item) on their turn. if that's the intention then that's fine. If not, then I think you could clean up the rules a little by changing it.

Quote:
In practice, this works out really well, in fact one of the biggest draws of the game (as far as I'm concerned) is the interaction between the players.

So it sounds like that last thing I just mentioned was your intention. I don't know that the other way takes any interaction out of it though.

Quote:
a seller can make the actual appraisal know at any time. They can use that to guarantee the value of an item, or they can be sly to ditch an item for more than it's worth. It's a neat inter-player mechanic that looms Diplomacy-like.

This could be good, but I think it would just cause me to prefer buying in a store to buying from a player- unless they reveal the value. I imagine in most auctions the seller decides to reveal that info, otherwise why would anyone bid more than they would pay at the store?

- Seth

Trickydicky
Offline
Joined: 12/31/1969
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

Look out Monopoly, here comes Collectibility! I personally don't like Monopoly, but this game would be a pleasant surprise for anyone thinking Monopoly-esque games. Very interesting. My biggest complaint would be that it seems fairly heavy on the luck side of things: die rolls as well as two different cards you randomly draw. But, hey sometimes I like a game that has a heavy luck component.

Questions: (I haven't read anyone elses responses yet so if these are repeat questions maybe you should really look at them seriously)

If a player has to pay money on a space and ends up losing all they have, they lose their turn. At the beginning of the next turn they get to take do they automatically get to go to one of the collect $50 spaces since they have less than $30 dollars?

Can there be more than one seller/lot at an auction? Say I am going to auction one of my own items and some one else wants to use my auction to sell one of theirs. If it is ok with me, the auctioner, would it be ok to include their lot in the auction?

Is there a specific reason to have a round of bidding and then the collector roll? It seems it would save time to simply have the collector roll first. That way if no one wants to outbid the collector there would be no need for the auction, and the seller still gets the highest amount they can.

Is there any kind of punishment for bidding more cash than you have on hand? Perhaps something like running out of money on a pay space, i.e. lose a turn.

Does the benefit of getting the slightly better appraisal cards make up for the really high costs of shopping at the Collectibles and Antique stores? This is something that would need to be playtested. Another way to make shopping at these stores more advantageous is if different shopping areas carried different kinds of collectibles. Perhaps that would complicate an already fairly complicated game.

About the rules in general:

I thought there were a few places where you explained the obvious, i.e. "the banker puts the money into the bank". Maybe as a gamer that is obvious and to others it is not. It seems a bit superfluous to me. There were also a fair number of rules covered in general in one area and in depth in another. If you could cut back on these two things it might cut your rules down a page or two. Not that big of a deal though.

All in all, I wish this game had become the staple in every family instead of Monopoly. It rides on luck but there is a lot more strategy involved, and there are rules for how you go about trading with other players (I hate when someone trades everything they have for $1 in Monopoly just to prevent someone from winning). Good work.

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

Overall, I think it's very good. The theme is clear, the play makes
sense with it. I like having four different shopping areas with logical
differences. Light enough for the subject matter, but enough decisions
to make it more than just roll and move.

THE BOARD

There are too many bad spaces on the outer edge, especially by the Flea
Market corner.. The outer spaces are less useful because they only
border one shopping area. To balance this, better things should (on
average) happen to players who move there. (Or am I underestimating
"Window Shopping"?)

There are a lot of no-brainer decisions about where to move. For
example, "Sell your item at an auction house" is obviously better than
"Dog chews on an item". Nobody will land on "Dog chews" except someone
coming from the center. (This is not necessarily a bad thing. Easy
decisions mean faster play.) I see two alternatives:
1) Put bad squares the same distance from intersections: If someone
rolls 3 from the center, make all of the possibilities "pay money" or
"lower appraisal" spaces. (Maybe also a "random bad" space based on a
die roll. Possibilities could range from "no loss" to "give an item to
another player.")
2) Put some bad squares immediately after good ones: If someone chooses to land on a "collect $50" space, put a "pay $100" space immediately after it for an element of risk.

If someone lands on a side corner space like Rent-a-Truck from the
center, can s/he double back toward the center on the next turn?

Every path in the center borders a high-price shopping area and a
low-price area. This is probably good, but did you consider putting the
Flea Market next to the Garage Sale, creating a "cheap street" between
them and "Fifth Avenue" between the other two, and making some
adjustment to each set of squares between?

I'd like to see something happen if two players occupy the same space,
like: "If I player lands in an occupied space, s/he may make one of
these offers to one other player in that space (before shopping):
a) Sell a specific item to that player for face value.
b) Buy one of that player's items for face value.
c) Offer to trade a chosen item for a chosen item of equal face value
belonging to the other.
The offer must be accepted or declined as is. The player who moved into
the space continues his turn whether or not the offer was accepted.

Suggestions for the board :
1) Have a slight difference in color between alternate squares, so it's
easier to tell when you move an even number of spaces ?
2) Use a different background or text color for the bad-outcome spaces.
3) Put a small symbol on each space in addition to the text, such as a
dollar-bill .gif for "collect money", a hammer with a plus sign for "add
to auction roll", a cracked vase for "lower appraisal", etc.
4) Have events that fit where you are. By the Garage Sale, "Dog bite -
spend $25 on new pants" or "Wife unloads husband's item for half price",
etc.

The movement rules make it possible to keep circling the same block.
There may be nothing wrong with this, but to stop it you could move
counter-clockwise around the outside, and make the center a "no left
turn" intersection.

AUCTIONS

Auctions could be much slower if players debate how to count items. I
suggest that the seller choose an auction rule in advance:
a) Cash only.
b) Items count half of their estimated values.
c) Items count their full estimated values.
Optionally, an all-cash bid could win over a mixed bid of equal value.

Can the auctioneer bid on his own items? This probably shouldn't be
allowed, or the commissions should be restricted, or you could get free
money bidding on your own item at a Dutch auction. (Nitpick: "Dutch
Auction" is the wrong term for what happens in those spaces. Try "Double
Commission" or "Celebrity Auction"??)

Are you allowed to auction after you shop but don't buy? It looks like no,
but you should make it clear.

REDUCED APPRAISALS

Absence of "POOR" cards shouldn't save someone completely. Either
"exchange ... for a POOR appraisal, or the lowest remaining appraisal
deck (but no higher than the current appraisal)" or add "Badly damaged"
cards (see under "General").

I assume "your highest appraisal" means you can choose which if you move more than one at the same level, but please spell it out.

STRATEGY

I'm concerned that a "Garage Sale / Collector" strategy may work too
well: Buy everything possible from the garage sale, and when you land on
a "good auction" space, sell all your fair-or-less items that won't form
collections in one lot to the Collector. Have you looked into this?

The game can be much shorter, and end suddenly, if someone completes two collections quickly. Has your play-testing shown if that happens often,
and if the players are dissatisfied when it does?

GENERAL

Will the playing tokens have arrows to show direction of travel?

When an appraisal changes, do other players see the "before" and "after"
appraisals? If not, it becomes possible to cheat. You could make
"Damaged Goods" and "Professionally Restored" cards to be kept until
sale with the damaged item and the original appraisal.

CONCLUSION
I've made a lot of comments, so let me repeat that it looks like a game I'd like a lot!

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

snipy3 wrote:
I am going to have to agree that the board is a lot to look at, but I think that is a good thing. If you have a variety of spaces like that it is better to have an explanation of each one (a la Life, possibly my least fav. game but in this case a gr8 example) than to just have the words.

I tend to design games where different spaces/cards do dsifferent things. That usually makes for a lot of reading in the game! I do like the flavor that the spaces add, and that means having the desription of what each space does right on the space.

Quote:
I have to go now, will be back probably tomorrow afternoon to finish reviewing.

Cool! Thanks for taking the time to look over the game. I look forward to your comments!

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

sedjtroll wrote:
Quote:
The wording is a bit clunky (with a penalty of 1.5 turns for not meeting the deficit listed in one paragraph and a reward and the ability to continue with his turn listed in the next.) The spirit of the rule was to keep players from being knocked back so far in their turn as to not be able to come back. Remember that the $50 bonus only goes for players with a total net worth of less than $30 (including the value of all item in that player's possession).

I may have thought it was for people who had less than $30 cash, but either way I think it's rediculous to reward someone for being broke- even if the intention is to keep them in the game.

Yeah, it's a compromise that I had to make to keep players that perform poorly at first from being in last place for the whole game (hopefully). In large part, this rule was based on memories of my playing Monopoly with friends and being the one in last place with absolutely no hope of catching up. I didn't want that to happen in my game so I added this. I may eliminate it all together since it doesn't happen very often. I'll have to playtest without it and see how it goes.

Quote:
Another way to do it is to have some "+" and "_" cards or counters which you can attach to a card which indicates that the appraisal value is higher or lower than the appraisal card says. Then you don;t have to go digging through the appraisal deck ever.

I keep thinking that there ahs to be a better way than what I have. This might just be it! It would also speed up play since players wouldn't have to go digging for a card.

Quote:
What is the reason you CAN re-open a store? If there's not a good one then myabe it would be betrter to have to go to stores that are still open for business.

Since a lot of the game is trying to find a set of items, it's an advantage to place an item in a location with no other items (that's assuming that the player wants that item back for some reason). Placing it in a location with no other items ensures that anyone can grab it from there. Of course the player is taking a chance that someone else doesn't get it first. Mainly the rule keeps the option open for players to put the item where they want. Since a rule would be needed to specify whether they can put an item in a closed location or not, I decided to make it so that they can to give the playrs that flexibility.

Quote:
From reading the rules it very much sounded like such a reserve bid is meaningless because if someone bids less than it then you still have to sell. Maybe I read it wrong or something, but that's the impression I got.

If there IS a 'minimum bid', then why not simply say that you cannot bid lower than that?

Good call, I may need to fine tune the rules tomake the intent more clear. You're right in that other players won't bid lower than the minimum bid. Since the collector is an automaton, I had to include a rule to account for the fact that the collector will occasionally offer less than the minimum bid. The rule just makes it clear that if anyone (mainly the collector) offers less than the minimum bid, then the seller is not obligated to sell.

Quote:
I suggest that dealmaking can be made whenever, but if someone wants to auction something it should be during their own turn. Since an Auction is a major part of the turn it seems odd to me that other players can auction on your turn, though I see why you want to do that. However, what's the difference to you if you buy my tihng at auction on your turn, or wait for my turn?

Like you said, it frees up the seller (not the player whose turn it is) to do other things when their turn comes around. That adds a little more enticement to the seller to agree to sell something at the expense of the turn of the player whose turn it is. It could go either way (allow players to sell things at the enticement of other players or have them wait until their turn), I decided to allow a little more flexibility. unfortunately that means more rules to cover the possibilities.

Quote:
...it would just cause me to prefer buying in a store to buying from a player- unless they reveal the value. I imagine in most auctions the seller decides to reveal that info, otherwise why would anyone bid more than they would pay at the store?

A lot of times a player will only bid low to start, see what the others bid and then seek assurances from the seller that it's really worth a higher bid. It adds more player interaction that I first anticipated, but the end result is really nice to see. If the seller wants to show others the appraisal they do. If potential bidders won't bid without reasurances that's usually what happens. It's a good way to get to know how ruthless your friends can be!

Thanks again for the great comments!!

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

Trickydicky wrote:
Look out Monopoly, here comes Collectibility! I personally don't like Monopoly, but this game would be a pleasant surprise for anyone thinking Monopoly-esque games. Very interesting.

Thanks! I can only hope that tihs game makes it to market much less becomes even a modest success! I'm actually glad that you mentioned the appeal to monopoly-heads. One of the big reasons that I keep coming back to this game is that it feels to me like a good gateway game. There are a lot of familiar feeling elements so that light game players don't feel too out of their element, but the game offers them some interesting decisions to be made. Not that it's a great strategy game, but it could interest people who are put off by the "german" games but want something more than the standard family-style game.

Quote:
Questions: (I haven't read anyone elses responses yet so if these are repeat questions maybe you should really look at them seriously)

Sometimes it's better that way!

Quote:
If a player has to pay money on a space and ends up losing all they have, they lose their turn. At the beginning of the next turn they get to take do they automatically get to go to one of the collect $50 spaces since they have less than $30 dollars?

This is an area that I will admit I need to work, both on the phrasing of the rules but also the necessity of this mechanic. The point was to help out a player that is wiped out so that they're not out of the game (I personally don't like elimination games). I'm not sure if I will keep this mechanic or not, but if I do, then it would allow a player who has less than $30 in net worth (cash on hand plus the value of all items in that player's possession) to gain a bonus $50.

Quote:
Can there be more than one seller/lot at an auction? Say I am going to auction one of my own items and some one else wants to use my auction to sell one of theirs. If it is ok with me, the auctioner, would it be ok to include their lot in the auction?

Very good question! Part of coming up with rules is trying to imagine every possible situation. This is a situation that certainly could come up (though not very often I don't think). Since the auction is for only one lot of items (that may need to be clarified in the rules), then multiple sellers would have to agree to lump their items into a single lot and then agree to the division of the income from that sale (including any bonuses).

Quote:
Is there a specific reason to have a round of bidding and then the collector roll? It seems it would save time to simply have the collector roll first. That way if no one wants to outbid the collector there would be no need for the auction, and the seller still gets the highest amount they can.

Another good question! No real reason. I just wanted the palyers to get the first crack at it. Psychologically, a player will become more attached to an item if they start the bidding or get a bid in while it is still low. That way, if they are outbid by the collector, they have more at stake than if the collector came in first with a high bid. There would be less emotional involvment in the auctions.

I love it when questions really make me think about why a mechanic or design is the way it is!

Quote:
Is there any kind of punishment for bidding more cash than you have on hand? Perhaps something like running out of money on a pay space, i.e. lose a turn.

No punishment other than having their bid voided by the seller. I can't imagine a player would do so on purpose. More likely than not it would be an accounting error, in which case the player selling the item or items would decide how to treat the bid. if the bidder has nothing more to offer, then the bidding would revert to the previous high bid. If the bidder wants to bid all of their cash plus some items, then it's up to the seller to decide if that new bid exceeds the previous high bid.

Quote:
Does the benefit of getting the slightly better appraisal cards make up for the really high costs of shopping at the Collectibles and Antique stores? This is something that would need to be playtested. Another way to make shopping at these stores more advantageous is if different shopping areas carried different kinds of collectibles. Perhaps that would complicate an already fairly complicated game.

Aaaah....this is where the game gets interesting! Since the goal of the game is to collect sets and because the items are distributed randomly among all areas, it may be that players must start looking at more expensive shops to complete their collections. It becomes more likely that the player's investment wil pay off (or not be in bad condition) by going to the Collectibles Store or Antique Shop, but that's not the main reason players will go there. They will search through them looking for a match to another collection once the other areas have been depleted.

In addition, the point to the board is that the players must follow around the outer edge of the board when leaving the inner lanes. If players choose to stick to the cheaper shops, they will find that the lanes around those shops are very treacherous (more so around the Garage Sale space than the Flea Market). Spaces around the more expensive areas are more benign (even beneficial) to the players, but they force the palyers to shop from the more expensive stores as they circle back around to the inner lanes.

Quote:
About the rules in general:

I thought there were a few places where you explained the obvious, i.e. "the banker puts the money into the bank". Maybe as a gamer that is obvious and to others it is not. It seems a bit superfluous to me. There were also a fair number of rules covered in general in one area and in depth in another. If you could cut back on these two things it might cut your rules down a page or two. Not that big of a deal though.

Yeah, this is really a judgment call. I like to explain even the little things just so that everyone is clear. As for the two areas, one is designed as a quick start to get players going in the game. The other is the more in depth section that deals with the specifics of the game. In practice, I find that players will read the quick start and then ignore the rest until there is a problem. I'm thinking I should probably revise the rules to make them one complete set.

Quote:
All in all, I wish this game had become the staple in every family instead of Monopoly. It rides on luck but there is a lot more strategy involved, and there are rules for how you go about trading with other players (I hate when someone trades everything they have for $1 in Monopoly just to prevent someone from winning). Good work.

Thank you for your comment and for your kind words!! Part f what spurred me on to create this game (with the help of my wife) was the thought that monopoly was fun, but there was always something missing. Maybe I can find a publisher who can make this game part of the youth of a whole new generation of gamers!

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

sedjtroll wrote:
Another way to do it is to have some "+" and "_" cards or counters which you can attach to a card which indicates that the appraisal value is higher or lower than the appraisal card says.

The more I think about this idea the more I like it! The old system has always relied on the honor system since all appraisals are private. This way, the player never exchanges anything, but adds (or takes away) chips from their item!

Very cool!!!! (Although the manifest of components just got a little longer!)

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

offcenter wrote:
Overall, I think it's very good. The theme is clear, the play makes
sense with it. I like having four different shopping areas with logical
differences. Light enough for the subject matter, but enough decisions
to make it more than just roll and move.

Thanks! That's exactly what I was shooting for.

Quote:
THE BOARD

There are too many bad spaces on the outer edge, especially by the Flea
Market corner.. The outer spaces are less useful because they only
border one shopping area. To balance this, better things should (on
average) happen to players who move there. (Or am I underestimating
"Window Shopping"?)
...
Every path in the center borders a high-price shopping area and a
low-price area. This is probably good, but did you consider putting the
Flea Market next to the Garage Sale, creating a "cheap street" between
them and "Fifth Avenue" between the other two, and making some
adjustment to each set of squares between?
...
The movement rules make it possible to keep circling the same block.
There may be nothing wrong with this, but to stop it you could move
counter-clockwise around the outside, and make the center a "no left
turn" intersection.

I was actually looking to make the outer edges more dangerous, especially when palyers decide to stay within shopping distance of the less expensive areas. The idea was that the spaces around any given store should be more dangerous and less rewarding the cheaper the items at that store were. The opposite is true of the stores where items are more expensive. Yes, a player can circle the cheap stores and buy items real cheap, but the spaces will more likely than not penalize them for it. It's a decision that players need to make.

The idea of having the cheaper areas in opposing corners was to force players to decide to stick by them at the risk of landing on a bad space, or spend a minimum of two turns circling the higher priced stores (whereby they would have to shop at a higher price should they choose to shop).

Players may choose to circle the cheap shops, but they will very likely be hit with the costly spaces more often making the strategic benefit of cheacper shopping not worth it.

Quote:
There are a lot of no-brainer decisions about where to move. For
example, "Sell your item at an auction house" is obviously better than
"Dog chews on an item". Nobody will land on "Dog chews" except someone
coming from the center. (This is not necessarily a bad thing. Easy
decisions mean faster play.) I see two alternatives:
1) Put bad squares the same distance from intersections: If someone
rolls 3 from the center, make all of the possibilities "pay money" or
"lower appraisal" spaces. (Maybe also a "random bad" space based on a
die roll. Possibilities could range from "no loss" to "give an item to
another player.")
2) Put some bad squares immediately after good ones: If someone chooses to land on a "collect $50" space, put a "pay $100" space immediately after it for an element of risk.

The inner lanes are filled with roughly equally nice spaces to try to entice players down them. The nicer the spaces of the inner lanes, the more dangerous the spaces of the outer lane will be.

Quote:
If someone lands on a side corner space like Rent-a-Truck from the
center, can s/he double back toward the center on the next turn?

No, a player cannot go back up the inner lane rom these squares. That should be made more clear in the rules. I have had problems making the concept of movement around the board clear in the rules. Think of the board as a no u-turn zone. If players were driving cars around the lanes (each lane is a 2-way street), no one may perform a u-turn at any time. Since the outer lanes are strictly one way, a player leaving an inner lane must turn onto the outer lane and follow it around the outer edge of at least one shopping area before turning back into the inner lanes. That needs to be better stated in the rules (maybe the no u-turn concept in the rules would help clarify). Something that players don't get from the rules that would be clear playing the game is that everyone is driving a car from shop to shop. That is communicated better by the use of little plastic cars for playing pieces.

Quote:
I'd like to see something happen if two players occupy the same space,
like: "If I player lands in an occupied space, s/he may make one of
these offers to one other player in that space (before shopping):
a) Sell a specific item to that player for face value.
b) Buy one of that player's items for face value.
c) Offer to trade a chosen item for a chosen item of equal face value
belonging to the other.
The offer must be accepted or declined as is. The player who moved into
the space continues his turn whether or not the offer was accepted.

Cool idea! I'll have to play around with the concept of having multiple players on the same space.

Quote:
Suggestions for the board :
1) Have a slight difference in color between alternate squares, so it's
easier to tell when you move an even number of spaces ?

Great idea! I always loved in monopoly being able to move to exactly the space I rolled without having to count out the spaces. Other players would then be busy double checking my space while I finished my turn!

Quote:
2) Use a different background or text color for the bad-outcome spaces.

Interesting... I do like players having to figure that out for themselves though... ; )

Quote:
3) Put a small symbol on each space in addition to the text, such as a
dollar-bill .gif for "collect money", a hammer with a plus sign for "add
to auction roll", a cracked vase for "lower appraisal", etc.

Oooh! I love icons, but I never thought to use them here. You don't think that they would further clutter the board (others have said that the board is already quite busy)?

Quote:
4) Have events that fit where you are. By the Garage Sale, "Dog bite -
spend $25 on new pants" or "Wife unloads husband's item for half price",
etc.

: ) I love it!

Quote:
AUCTIONS
Auctions could be much slower if players debate how to count items. I
suggest that the seller choose an auction rule in advance:
a) Cash only.
b) Items count half of their estimated values.
c) Items count their full estimated values.
Optionally, an all-cash bid could win over a mixed bid of equal value.

I can see your point, but I would like the players to have the flexibility of making real world choices. My experience has been that rules that try to controll such things are generally ignored or left out.

Quote:
Can the auctioneer bid on his own items? This probably shouldn't be
allowed, or the commissions should be restricted, or you could get free
money bidding on your own item at a Dutch auction.

Absolutely not, though that may need to be specified in the rules. Thanks for bringing it up!

Quote:
(Nitpick: "Dutch
Auction" is the wrong term for what happens in those spaces. Try "Double
Commission" or "Celebrity Auction"??)

Yes, I know... Technically a dutch auction is when more than one item is for sale (thus the double income for a single item). I like your suggestions...

Quote:
Are you allowed to auction after you shop but don't buy? It looks like no,
but you should make it clear.

Correct, a player may not, though again that may need to be made explicit in the rules.

Quote:
REDUCED APPRAISALS
Absence of "POOR" cards shouldn't save someone completely. Either
"exchange ... for a POOR appraisal, or the lowest remaining appraisal
deck (but no higher than the current appraisal)" or add "Badly damaged"
cards (see under "General").
...
When an appraisal changes, do other players see the "before" and "after"
appraisals? If not, it becomes possible to cheat. You could make
"Damaged Goods" and "Professionally Restored" cards to be kept until
sale with the damaged item and the original appraisal.

This mechanic is the most suspect and the most likely to change. I am going to implement Sedjtroll's idea of + or - counters that palyers add to their item. That way, if there are no POOR appraisals left, the really bad spaces will still affect the palyer (no freebies!!). I like the counters better than making more cards because there will already be a large number of cards in the game to begin with. Counters seem like a good and inexpensive way to accomplish the same thing (also without obstructing other player's view of both the original item and the changes to its condition.

Quote:
I assume "your highest appraisal" means you can choose which if you move more than one at the same level, but please spell it out.

Good point, I will have to make that clear!

Quote:
STRATEGY
I'm concerned that a "Garage Sale / Collector" strategy may work too
well: Buy everything possible from the garage sale, and when you land on
a "good auction" space, sell all your fair-or-less items that won't form
collections in one lot to the Collector. Have you looked into this?

Good question. The spaces around the board will keep players from "hovering" without negative effects. A player may choose to try and buy cheap everything they can and then dump them when strategically beneficial to them, though it's worth a player's while to get a full set since it will automatically double the value of that set. In either event, the games that i have played have been particularly well balanced. Future playtests (especially with players looking to break the game...hint Zzzz!) will tell.

Quote:
The game can be much shorter, and end suddenly, if someone completes two collections quickly. Has your play-testing shown if that happens often,
and if the players are dissatisfied when it does?

Games generally take about 90 minutes to complete (sometimes less, but not drastically so). Since everyone is out buying items, it is unlikely that a player will get two full sets without having to buy from at least one player. I have never seen a game cut short. If anything they went too long at first (that's why the $100 items are removed for 2-3 player games).

Quote:
GENERAL
Will the playing tokens have arrows to show direction of travel?

Great question!! They didn't at first and that caused no end of confusion over which direction a player was heading! Now I have little plastic cars that make it very clear which way a player is going.

Quote:
CONCLUSION
I've made a lot of comments, so let me repeat that it looks like a game I'd like a lot!

Thank you for taking the time to look over Collectibility! Your excellent comments and questions have really given me some great feedback on the game!

Zzzzz
Zzzzz's picture
Offline
Joined: 06/20/2008
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

Quote:
I was actually looking to make the outer edges more dangerous, especially when palyers decide to stay within shopping distance of the less expensive areas.

(keep in mind I did not have time to recheck your board, so this might be a pointless post)

If you are going to do this, I would suggest that the "bad" squares located around the expensive shopping areas contain "worse" outcomes.

And what I mean by that, if there are fewer squares, for instance only one "bad" square located around the Antique area, the outcome of landing on this one square might need to be "really bad', like "Lose highest valued item due to a gallery theft!"

Just a thought....

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

Okay, I had a chance to read through the rules this time without interruption, so here are my thoughts:

1. I assume the "category" of each item card is listed somewhere on the card (do you have the cards available that we could look at or would you prefer to keep them hidden).

2. I'm not so sure this is entirely a luck based game, my point of view is that it is an auction game with a board. It does have strong ties to Monopoly (owning all of one set triggers a bonus for example).

3. There were some things that were repeated in the rule book, especially the paragraph about not having to show the appraisal value card, I believe that was in the rules at least two times.

4. Going from what I read I believe a player can choose any path to go on as long as it follows the arrow sequence, and they cannot go back the way they came from when they land on the Collectibility space. Am I right?

5. On an unrelated note, are you the one who made the High Council game? This board game creation stuff seems to come too easy to you (or maybe it's just too hard for me?).

6. I would be interested in playtesting this game if you wouldn't mind sending me a copy of the game via e-mail to:
aaronofpaul@hotmail.com
This is the type of game my family might play, and we have 6 here so we could easily play this a few times.

Nice game!

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

Oops you created Good Cat, Bad Cat. Too easy to get mixed up on this site I guess =)

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

Zzzzz wrote:
And what I mean by that, if there are fewer squares, for instance only one "bad" square located around the Antique area, the outcome of landing on this one square might need to be "really bad', like "Lose highest valued item due to a gallery theft!"

You've got the idea, except that the most punishing spaces should be around the cheapest places to shop to offset the advantage of being able to shop there. It's most advantageous to shop there, so the harsh spaces keep players from just circling around the least expensive spaces for the whole game.

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

snipy3 wrote:
Okay, I had a chance to read through the rules this time without interruption, so here are my thoughts:

Thanks! I appreciate the feedback!

Quote:
1. I assume the "category" of each item card is listed somewhere on the card (do you have the cards available that we could look at or would you prefer to keep them hidden).

Yes, the category is listed right at the top. In addition, each category is a different color. I know it still falls into the pitfalls of not being distinct enough for colorblind players, but this design goes back to before I even thought about that. I'll have to think about fixing that going forward, but witht he category written on each one, it's not a priority.

I'd be glad to share the cards. I'm going to do a little more work on the game based on the feedback here and I'll post them afterwards.

Quote:
2. I'm not so sure this is entirely a luck based game, my point of view is that it is an auction game with a board. It does have strong ties to Monopoly (owning all of one set triggers a bonus for example).

Thanks! I think that there are enough elements that the general gaming public would find familiar to draw them in, and enough decision for them to make to be a little more interesting than just moving counters around a board.

Quote:
3. There were some things that were repeated in the rule book, especially the paragraph about not having to show the appraisal value card, I believe that was in the rules at least two times.

Thanks, I'll take a look and see if I can clean it up a little better.

Quote:
4. Going from what I read I believe a player can choose any path to go on as long as it follows the arrow sequence, and they cannot go back the way they came from when they land on the Collectibility space. Am I right?

Yes, you're right. Just think of the outer lanes as one way streets that always go counter clockwise around the board. The inner lanes are two way streets that players may "drive" down in either direction. At no time and in no space may any player make a u-turn and go back the way they went in.

The movement rules are a little sparse and need a little more clarification (since the distribution of the spaces depends on proper movement to offer effective choices for the plaeyrs to make).

Quote:
5. On an unrelated note, are you the one who made the High Council game? This board game creation stuff seems to come too easy to you (or maybe it's just too hard for me?).
...
Oops you created Good Cat, Bad Cat. Too easy to get mixed up on this site I guess =)

Thanks! Unfortunately it takes a lot of time for me to get an idea into even a rough form. I have been working on this game for almost 2 years now. I work and then put a game on the shelf when I can't put any more of myself into it. Then, something inspires me and I pull it back out again to fine tune and fiddle.

Quote:
6. I would be interested in playtesting this game if you wouldn't mind sending me a copy of the game via e-mail to:
aaronofpaul@hotmail.com
This is the type of game my family might play, and we have 6 here so we could easily play this a few times.

I'd love it if you would! Like I mentioned before, I plan on a few tweaks based on feedback here. I should have something ready to go soon! I'd love to get your feedback!

Quote:
Nice game!

Thanks! I really appreciate your kind words and the great comments, thanks for taking the time to look my game over!

GeminiWeb
Offline
Joined: 07/31/2008
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

Thanks for the opportunity to have a look over the game. I think the GDW is one of the best (if not the best) parts of BGDF and I look forward to commenting each time. That said, its taken me til today (Friday in Oz) to do it and I missed last week altogether (sorry sedjtroll!).

Game looks good. I like the board in particular, with choices of tracks and the general 'busyness'.

Now for some comments in my normal brainstorming/random/tangent-seeking mode ... my aplogies is this has all been mentioned before ...

Shuffling

There seems to be lots of times when you are called to shuffle a deck (item or appraisal). Repeated shuffling usually irritates me so my question is 'do we gain alot by reshuffling rather than placing the card at the bottom'?

In some cases it is necessary (such as after looking for specific appraisals), but at other times it seems to just add to the randomness. I can however see this adds to the uncertainty of knowing when 'your' item might appear. That said, knowing the cycle of the cards could lead to interesting strategies ...

This also applies to cases where you refer to randomly picking a card - taking a card form the top of the deck seems much less fiddly.

Also, I was surprised to see that the rules state under Purchase Price that the card is put back in the middle of the deck and then shuffled. I would have thought just shuffling would have been sufficient or are we being wary are card sharks here?

Inability to pay

I assume that other players want to bid low in an auction to force a player to sell everything, except of course they probably want the items themselves so they bid higher ...

Total Cash < $30

Any thoughts on changing things so that instead a person can move to a +$50 square as their move if they have less than $30. As such, it replaces rolling the die, which just seems a bit neater to me.

Variations in purchase price according to shopping area

Nice touch. I was originally going to suggest the item card distribution (by value) be influenced by the locations, but this does the trick and fits the theme very nicely.

To reduce the maths, have you considered something along the lines of:

- on all item cards include a list of values, with the starting value varyiong by shopping area (denoted by A, C and F/G next to the respective )
- appraisals refer to raising or lowering the actual value up or down through the list of values
- haggling refers to allowing the purchase as if the item's value was one value down the scale

In the above example, you would also need to keep track of where you purchased the item (use a token?) ... but you get the general idea.

Appraisal cards

While I'm brainstorming, appraisal cards could be replaced with appraisal tokens which are blank on one side and have the appriasal valuation on the other side. They could be drawn face down or from a cloth bag. Just an idea to try and lower your costs of production possibly ...

Categories/collections and colour

I read somewhere in the replies you also used colour to differentiate the categories but that would be impacted by colour-blindness. I assume symbols could be used easily enough?

Player loses remainder of turn

This really really confused me until I read later that it is possible to buy multiple items on some squares.

Variations in minimum appraisal according to shopping area

Nice touch. What happens if there aren't any such in the deck? (This is explained later for raising and lowering appraisals but not here).

Auctions

Sorry - I didn't quite get time to read all this bit, but it looks good from my rough scanning. The idea of the Collector seems nice..

- GeminiWeb / Bill

jwarrend
Offline
Joined: 08/03/2008
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

Steve,

I haven’t finished reading the rules yet, and I haven’t been following the discussion, so you should take this with a grain of salt. I was going to refrain from posting, but I haven’t seen the view I’m going to express articulated yet (to the extent that I’ve followed the discussion), so I thought I’d put it out there for you to consider. It’s something of a “dissenting” opinion, and the fact that you’ve gotten a lot of praise from folks who have read the rules fully should count for way more than my viewpoint.

Ok, I mentioned that I hadn’t fully read the rules. Let me start there. A roll and move game with a 12 page, single spaced rulebook, is in a whole world of trouble. The turn mechanic is simple enough; you described it in one page, on page 2. But then after that follow 9 pages of special rules and exceptions and such. It’s just too much. There’s too much simulation here. It’s as if you took every aspect of assembling a collection, and tried to find it a mechanical home in the game. The result, I strongly suspect, is likely to overwhelm the very audience you’re trying to appeal to -- non-gamers looking for a Monopoly alternative. You’re trying to capture too many aspects of the theme -- different locations, 6 levels of value per category, varying conditions, set collecting, auctions, not to mention “active board spaces”. It’s overwhelming.

First, I like that you’ve got differentiation between 4 different locations for acquiring items. I feel that the choice between them should be something like this: “Garage sales let you get stuff cheap, but it takes ‘longer’ to find something good. In contrast, shops let you get exactly what you want (or have a higher probability of finding something ‘good’, but the costs are higher”. Perhaps you have this already. But that’s really as far as I’d go.

The rules about haggling are a great example of unnecessary complexity -- as I recall they read something like “At [this location], if you’re trying to haggle to [this percent of the price], you need to roll [this roll] to succeed”, where all of the [ ] items vary per shop. The big problem is that these kinds of rules are not, from what I read, easily internalized by a first time player. I would personally cut haggling altogether -- if you have players interacting with each other via auctions or deals, there’s no need for NPCs-- but if you don’t, you need to implement some broad universal scheme for how haggling works at *all* locations. For example, maybe to successfully haggle, you have to hit the desired price reduction with a roll of dice, and the number of dice you roll is determined by location; e.g., garage salers haggle easily, so you roll 1 die; antiques dealers don’t, so you must roll several dice. Obviously this example system isn’t perfect, but you get the idea.

Second, it seems that what you should really be trying to exploit with the set collection is that different things have different value to different people, and that these are asymmetric. Monopoly does this quite well, actually, and with the explicit trade mechanic, it lets you make those kinds of deals. I’m not sure your game does except for the auction mechanic. Here’s a cute example of what I mean; let’s say in the “Sports memorabilia” category, there’s one item that is “Complete Topps 1983 baseball card set, missing Gary Carter card” and there’s another that is “1983 Topps Gary Carter Card”. Now, the Carter card may have a high intrinsic value already, but to the owner of the almost-complete collection, it’s much more valuable. This is just a silly example, but you get the point.

Bottom line, I think you have some good ideas and good mechanics, but it just doesn’t feel to me like a “Monopoly-killer” because it’s just too realistic, too detailed. I think you need to focus on what aspects of collecting you see as truly presenting interesting decisions, and cut out the rest. I definitely recommend looking at “Hoity Toity”, a former game of the year and designed by Klaus Teuber, of Settlers fame. It’s a different take on collecting that, as I recall, plays quite well, and unfortunately, is, I think, more accessible than the current incarnation of “Collectibility”.

That said, I admire your stick-to-it-iveness with this one. My very first game is in the scrap heap currently, but me first “decent” game, I still tinker with every year trying to get it right. There’s a great lesson that even our first designs probably have some spark that is worth trying to fan into a flame. But to be blunt, this one still feels like a “first design”, because everyone (me definitely included!) when they first design a game puts in way too many simulation elements. You’ve obviously grown a lot as a designer since you first did this game, but now you need to apply what you’ve learned and start whittling out complexity to focus the game more tightly on the genuinely interesting decision matrix you’ve erected here. It’s actually not far from being done, but I think there’s a lot of hacking that you can still do.

Just my take; maybe we’ll get to play it at a future “Playfest” and I’ll see the error of my impressions!

Good luck,

Jeff

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

GeminiWeb wrote:
Thanks for the opportunity to have a look over the game. I think the GDW is one of the best (if not the best) parts of BGDF and I look forward to commenting each time. That said, its taken me til today (Friday in Oz) to do it and I missed last week altogether (sorry sedjtroll!).

Thanks for taking the time to look it over and comment! I really love this part of the forum in that it gives everyone a chance to see what others are doing and add their input.

Quote:
Game looks good. I like the board in particular, with choices of tracks and the general 'busyness'.

Thank you!!

Quote:
Now for some comments…
Shuffling
There seems to be lots of times when you are called to shuffle a deck (item or appraisal). Repeated shuffling usually irritates me so my question is 'do we gain a lot by reshuffling rather than placing the card at the bottom'?

In the cases where a player looks at more than one item in a shopping area, the intent is to keep the area randomized so that no player knows exactly what cards are where in the area. Hopefully this is an acceptable level of shuffling in that it probably won’t happen too often.

As for the appraisals, there’s no reason why the unused cards couldn’t be placed at the bottom. That would eliminate some of the shuffling… Good call!

Quote:
This also applies to cases where you refer to randomly picking a card - taking a card form the top of the deck seems much less fiddly.

Do you mean when shopping and pulling a random card from the shopping area? The area was meant to be more of a disorganized mess of cards than a neatly stacked deck of cards. That way a player may just pull one from the jumble. Psychologically, it give me (hopefully other players) the feeling that I have more control over getting the right card than just pulling the top card. It’s more like actual shopping to me (though a more randomized abstraction).

Quote:
Also, I was surprised to see that the rules state under Purchase Price that the card is put back in the middle of the deck and then shuffled. I would have thought just shuffling would have been sufficient or are we being wary are card sharks here?

You’re right here, since the piles are more of a disorganized jumble, just putting the card into the middle should be enough to randomize it into the mix.

Quote:
Inability to pay
I assume that other players want to bid low in an auction to force a player to sell everything, except of course they probably want the items themselves so they bid higher ...

It’s interesting to see the actual auctions as they work, it goes quite well!

Quote:
Total Cash < $30
Any thoughts on changing things so that instead a person can move to a +$50 square as their move if they have less than $30. As such, it replaces rolling the die, which just seems a bit neater to me.

I’m not sure if this mechanic will survive to the next incarnation of the game. It was intended to benefit a player who has already moved and has landed on a space by which they get hit for almost everything they own! In that case, the player would be allowed to move their token to the mentioned +$50 space, get the money and continue their turn from that space. I didn’t think about a player whose total net worth (cash plus the value of all items in their possession) is less than $30 at the start of their turn. I can see that happening if they sink a lot of money into an item that turns out to be a piece of junk. Hmmm… In that case, you’re right, they could immediately move their pawn at the start of their turn instead of rolling. I’ll keep that in mind!

Quote:
Variations in purchase price according to shopping area
Nice touch. I was originally going to suggest the item card distribution (by value) be influenced by the locations, but this does the trick and fits the theme very nicely.

Thanks!!

Quote:
To reduce the math, have you considered something along the lines of:

- on all item cards include a list of values, with the starting value varying by shopping area (denoted by A, C and F/G next to the respective )
- appraisals refer to raising or lowering the actual value up or down through the list of values
- haggling refers to allowing the purchase as if the item's value was one value down the scale

In the above example, you would also need to keep track of where you purchased the item (use a token?) ... but you get the general idea.

I think I follow what you’re saying, please correct me if I’m wrong. It sounds as though you envision an appraisal being attached to each item before it is purchased? And that the player may haggle for the next higher or lower purchase price based on the appraisal of the item?

The intent of the game is that a player buys the item form the shopping areas and then takes an appraisal for it. It may turn out to be in great shape and quite a bargain. It may turn out to be flawed or otherwise reduced in value (though the player wouldn’t know that when buying the item). The player may pick up something that is a hidden treasure or a low value piece of junk. That’s why the item has an estimated value that determines the purchase price and then an actual value determined by the appraisal after it is purchased.

I hope I’m on the right track with your suggestion!

Quote:
Appraisal cards
While I'm brainstorming, appraisal cards could be replaced with appraisal tokens which are blank on one side and have the appraisal valuation on the other side. They could be drawn face down or from a cloth bag. Just an idea to try and lower your costs of production possibly ...

I like this idea!! I have been brainstorming with sedjtroll about ways to simplify the game components and to reduce the number of cards needed. There’s no reason why counters couldn’t be used for the appraisals (or even the items for that matter). You’ve definitely given me something to think about!

Quote:
Categories/collections and colour
I read somewhere in the replies you also used colour to differentiate the categories but that would be impacted by colour-blindness. I assume symbols could be used easily enough?

Good point!

Quote:
Player loses remainder of turn
This really really confused me until I read later that it is possible to buy multiple items on some squares.

Yes, it’s more for when a player may shop more than once. If they decide to haggle and are rejected, then they will have upset the store owner enough that they may not shop any more that turn.

Quote:
Variations in minimum appraisal according to shopping area
Nice touch. What happens if there aren't any such in the deck? (This is explained later for raising and lowering appraisals but not here).

Thanks!

I will have to revisit the rules and account for that! That may also be eliminated if I eliminate the appraisals somehow. I was thinking about having the 5 possible appraisals printed on each card use plastic clips to indicate the appraisal of that item. Then, as players land on spaces that affect the appraisal of an item, the clip could be slid up or down depending on the effect of the space. This would eliminate the need to appraisal cards (a die could be rolled for the appraisal) or counters to indicate an increase or a decrease in the appraisal of an item. The downside is that the cards could become marked from repeated use of the clips.

Quote:
Auctions
Sorry - I didn't quite get time to read all this bit, but it looks good from my rough scanning. The idea of the Collector seems nice..

Thanks again!! The auctions work out well in playtesting. They are a little more simplistic than a real auction might be (or a game more build around auctions), but it works well for the theme and relative lightness of the game.

Great feedback, I really appreciate it!

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

jwarrend wrote:
I haven’t seen the view I’m going to express articulated yet (to the extent that I’ve followed the discussion), so I thought I’d put it out there for you to consider.

Thanks for taking the time to respond! I appreciate getting all points of view to help me get a more complete picture.

Quote:
A roll and move game with a 12 page, single spaced rulebook, is in a whole world of trouble. The turn mechanic is simple enough; you described it in one page, on page 2. But then after that follow 9 pages of special rules and exceptions and such. It’s just too much.

I do tend to try to over explain everything with the thought that I’m writing to the lowest common denominator. Feedback here has shown me a lot of places that are over explained or explained twice, and some areas that need to be reworded or explained with more detail. Hopefully the next iteration will be more concise.

Quote:
There’s too much simulation here . . . It’s overwhelming.

Point taken—a lot of the problems I run into with design being over simulation. Part of that is a byproduct of developing a game theme first. A theme calls out for an obvious set of abstractions for it to be effective. The art in game design is knowing what to abstract and to what degree.

Quote:
First, I like that you’ve got differentiation between 4 different locations for acquiring items. I feel that the choice between them should be something like this: “Garage sales let you get stuff cheap, but it takes ‘longer’ to find something good. In contrast, shops let you get exactly what you want (or have a higher probability of finding something ‘good’, but the costs are higher”. Perhaps you have this already. But that’s really as far as I’d go.

That’s about how shopping works. Players may pick up items at a much lower price, but it will take them longer to get items that are in good or better condition since there are no guarantees to the condition of the items. Shopping in the more expensive areas will guarantee that an item is not in the worst or second worst condition, but it will cost more. It’s a good example of the decisions that a player will have to make. in addition, the items are randomly distributed among all shopping areas. It’s possible that a player won’t be able to find the item that completes their collection at the garage sale or a flea market, they will have to look in the antique store, etc. I think this aspect of the game is a good example of a simple abstraction that fits well with the theme of the game.

Quote:
The rules about haggling are a great example of unnecessary complexity . . .

Good point. It is a mechanic that could be eliminated without too much negative effect. Surprisingly, this mechanic was actually developed not from the theme, but from the need to encourage players to shop. When I set up the game board, I thought long and hard about how to best use the spaces to encourage the players to either shop or sell items in roughly equal amounts. To that end I developed the haggling system. The idea that a player may haggle (with a bonus to their roll from a space) for a cheaper price than normally available may be just the push they need to get them to buy something that round.

Yes, it may be something that the game could do without. If further playtests confirm what you suspect then I’ll readdress the need for it.

Quote:
Second, it seems that what you should really be trying to exploit with the set collection is that different things have different value to different people, and that these are asymmetric.

Interesting take on the collection aspect. I like your ideas but I’m not sure I’d be able to implement them without complicating the rules more. It’s something I’ll think about and see if it’s a fit.

Quote:
Bottom line, I think you have some good ideas and good mechanics, but it just doesn’t feel to me like a “Monopoly-killer” because it’s just too realistic, too detailed.

That’s a flaw that I deal with in just about every game. Unfortunately I don’t have a good sense of mechanics first design so I move forward and look to feedback from GDW or from playtesters to help me pare down the unnecessary and streamline what is good!

Quote:
That said, I admire your stick-to-it-iveness with this one. My very first game is in the scrap heap currently, but me first “decent” game, I still tinker with every year trying to get it right.

Every game has some element worth keeping or remembering, even if the game itself is a bust. My follow up to this game was a horrible flop (after 3+ hours of playing, my brother and I were only just getting started in our empire building). I haven’t pulled that one out to work on and I probably wont, but it really helped me to grow as a designer!

Quote:
Just my take; maybe we’ll get to play it at a future “Playfest” and I’ll see the error of my impressions!

I look forward to getting together with the crowd from Albany again soon! Thanks for the great feedback. I enjoy hearing everyone’s gut reactions since they seem to be the most sincere and to the point. That’s what makes the GDW such an immensely resource.

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

After looking over the great feedback and considering game play, I'm looking into a variation that may really improve the game.

I'm thinking about simplifying the appraisals by eliminating the cards for appraisals altogether. The concept is to have the 5 possible appraisals (excellent, very good, good, fair and poor) printed along one side of every item card. An item is purchased as normal and then the appraisal is determined based on a die roll. A clip or a peg is then used to track the appraisal for that item. If the appraisal goes up or down, then the clip or peg is moved up or down on the itme card/counter.

One big advantage to this is that the actual values based on each appraisal can be printed on each card. No more looking up the actual value on a chart. Also it simplifies the tracking of the appraisal and the changes that may occur to the appraisal of the item throughout the game.

One big disadvantage is that the appraisals are more random (though still adjusted according to shopping area so that something bought at the antique store will never be appraised at less than good, etc.) instead of being a set number and distribution of cards. Another is that the appraisals are no longer private. I'm not sure if these are bad things, only playtesting will tell if the adjustments really change the flavor of the game.

sedjtroll
sedjtroll's picture
Offline
Joined: 07/21/2008
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

SiskNY wrote:
I'm thinking about simplifying the appraisals by eliminating the cards for appraisals altogether.

I had PM'ed Sisk about this very topic, and I think this clip/peg idea is decent but I think it adds a TON of components, and expensive ones (as opposed to the cards he was trying to get rid of).

My suggestions are as follows, there are 2:

1. Print a condition on each edge of each card, then determine condition randomly (*) and set down the card so that the orientation shows the condition (the top edge where the condition is legible). For Poor condition the card could be turned upside down.

2. The other suggestion allows some information to be kept secret- but not the condition. Imagine each player has a "bin", a delineated space (not a physical bin) for each condition. Draw the item cards in secret, determine the condition randomly (*) and put the card face down in the appropriate bin. You can look at your cards whenever you want. This way noone knows what item you have, only the condition- which may be similar to knowing the item but not the condtion. When selling an iten you should probably have to say what it is. This works with another suggestion I had which was to not have auctions on other players turns.

(*) Some ways to determine the condition:
- Roll a D6, 1-5 indicates condition, 6 means you get to choose (you might want Excellent so it's worth more, or you might want something else for set purposes)
- Use a spinner. It fits the theme of 'classic american games' and it can be used to weight the probability of values- making Fair and Good more common then Poor and Very Good, with Excellent least common (adjust the portion of the spinner result such that there's more Good results than Excellent, etc)
- Use a single stack of Condition cards, with a specific number of each (for weighted distribution there doesn't have to be 1 of each, maybe 1 Poor, 2 Fair, 2 Good, 2 Very Good, and 1 Excellent). Shuffle them at the beginning then never shuffle them again. When you buy an item you draw the top card and that's the condition, then you put that card on the bottom of the stack, preserving the order. San Juan does something like this for the Trading phase. Once you get through the order you know when it's good to buy and when it's bad, and this is different for everyone depending on what they've got. I like this idea a lot, though it's not as simple as the die roll (and I like the wild on the die roll)

- Seth

Anonymous
Game #46: Collectibility by Steve Sisk (SiskNY)

sedjtroll wrote:
-Use a single stack of Condition cards, with a specific number of each

I like this idea and would be interested to see how it would do in a playtest. I may give it a try in conjunction with the other ideas abour tracking the condition of an item.

Quote:
-Roll a D6...

One possibility I'm toying with is to eliminate the haggling aspect (though I like the balance on the game board of spaces encouraging players to shop vs. spaces encouraging the player to sell, but that can be addressed in other ways). In its place, I'm thinking about having the d6 determine the quality of the item, with different scales dependin on the shopping area. For example, in the Antiques Store, 1-2 = Good, 3-4 = Very Good, and 5-6 = Excellent. In the Garage Sale, 1-2 = Poor, 3 = Fair, 4 = Good, 5 = Very Good, and 6 = Excellent.

Syndicate content


forum | by Dr. Radut