1/2 inch counter prototypes

Hi

If you are doing prototypes I would suggest that you continue with what you are doing but change the work order:
- Print the counters on paper
- Cut the front of the counters (the whole block and not every single counter).
- Glue the front to a thick card board.
- Cut the cardboard around the counter block.
- Cut the backside of the counters and glue it too the backside of the cardboard. The lines between the counters should not be marked on the backside (you will have a precision of 0.2-0.3 mm and a wrong placed line will show.
- Now cut the counters (You will need a good paper cutter, there are several threads around that in this forum).

For glue I use a rubber glue. That is elastic and also works when I do the cutting (If you use a hard rubber, then will it not work when you do the cutting).
One double-sided letter with counters takes around 20-30 minutes to create.

// Johan

I guess you meant 2-3 mm or 0.2-0.3 cm

Seo

No. A line that are 0.3 mm wrong on a 12 mm counter will be very visiable (but it will just be a flaw in the visability). If you have 2-3 mm, then you can´t make proper counters (with information on the countes).
I have problems with my printer when I print double sided game cards and get them around 2-3 mm wrong and that is a problem when the cards are 40-60 mm wide.

// Johan

Desprez, if you're still changing your counters or changing the quantity, then you probably don't want to have them printed outside until you're really really sure you're done.

I think many of the approaches people have mentioned here and on other threads are slightly inefficient for doing double-sided chits. The basic problem, as mentioned here, is that there's too much variation for the sides to line up well. Johan's process (and others) has slightly too many steps, and the variation control's still a problem (either chits are mis-aligned, or it takes too long to line them up).

The big thing is that you need to print both sides on the same sheet of paper, then fold that over. This controls the variation. Remember that the back side has to be laid out in reverse of the front side (not a reverse image, but a reverse layout; right to left to match the front chits laid out left to right, for example). You'll only get half as many chits per page, but you'll use the same amount of paper. You will use more card stock, but you'll get thicker chits for the same amount of work (which is the more critical element).

This is what I do:

- Design the graphics & do layout so they all fit on the same page. For example, if I have big tiles 1--8, I would lay them out like so:

<br />
A1A2B2B1<br />
A3A4B3B4<br />
A5A6B5B6<br />
A7A8B7B8<br />

- Print the sheet and mount it out on some thick stock. If it's a quick draft I use old cereal boxes. If it's something nicer, I use matte board. I also use manila folders I steal from work, which come out slightly thin but are very workable and the price is right. Use spray adhesive like 3Ms---it applies fast and evenly (little effort on your part), and sticks forever. Don't worry about lining up exactly on the stock, as long as all your chits are on it. It's more important to save your time than be precise here, as time's more valuable and it's just going to get all cut up anyway. I do however keep the scraps to make extra bits in a hurry (e.g. the other day I needed a bunch of spaceships quick so I cut a bunch of triangles out of some scraps and colored them with colored pencils).

- Score down the center of the sheet. Basically, trace it with a hobby knife just deep enough to break the sheet and top of the card stock without going all the way through. Real easy with practice. This lets you fold the sheet without crinkling the paper/stock.

- Spray the back of the card stock with adhesive and fold together.

- Cut out your chits. I try to cut in whatever pattern will require the least amount of knife-lifting and straightedge setting. I usually cut along long edges first, producing fewer long strips of chits, which I found quicker to cut than more shorter strips, but it's negligible and debatable.

So, now you've got thicker chits with less cutting & mounting operations, which are really the time killers.

--------------------

As for actually printing chits, I've been working on similar issues for forever. The problem is the stock. I can find printers who can print 12pt at low runs for ok price, and can get that die cut for an ok price. This is all talking 1--2k pieces, it seems easy enough to do about $1US each for 1k 12x18 printed & cut sheets, including the die.

But, I can't find any way to get the print mounted on something thick enough that it will be fun to play with. 12pt's not quite thick enough for a chit that gets picked up a lot, though it works well enough for player consoles, maps, and such. If anyone has any input or thoughts on that, I'd be really appreciative to hear them. I've heard of some printers going directly to 24pt, which might be workable, but haven't been able to contact any and don't know what prices would be like.

Thanks!